Schwinn World Voyageur Restoration Cancelled !! Parliament and Raleigh Sports Updates

Hello and Welcome, I was recently contacted by one of my best customers and face book friends Laura about restoring her dads old Schwinn road bike. I was told they thought the fork might have been bent and she wanted to know if I could repair and possibly restore it. Of course I said sure no problem. I was expecting a Continental or Varsity or possibly a La Tour.

Above: The Schwinn World Voyageur. At this point I had already cleaned the crank, chain, front and rear derailleurs and the freewheel. I had also removed the handlebar tape and padding. Having never seen or heard of the World Voyageur I assumed that Laura's dad had done a bunch of really cool upgrades. I was surprised to see a few other World Voyageurs on the Old Ten speed Gallery that also had all the same cool stuff. I had no idea that Schwinn had ever built a bike this beautiful. The frame alone is amazing by itself. Especially when you are talking about an early to mid 1970's Schwinn. And the light weight three piece crankset and bar cons! This is unbelievable.

Above: I was sure that this La Tour rear derailleur (possibly a Huret) was an upgrade, it was not. I did not realize it yet but the wheels are not correct. After a good "on the bike cleaning" of the derailleur and installing fresh Jag Wire derailleur cables it was time to see if she will go through the gears. At first it only had a three gear range on the rear derailleur. But after re setting the high and low gear limit screws it was shifting fine. The idea in doing this work first was to see if the bike could be made to function properly with the existing components. The front derailleur was the same story after it was cleaned, lubed and adjusted it worked perfectly. So far So good.

The brakes looked rough and the period correct brake shoes looked like they had been on there for decades. And oddly enough it appeared to have newer brake cables. I could not help but wonder, why did they not replace the shoes as well? Maybe they saw the thickness and thought they must be ok. But we know better, do we not? Brake shoes harden over time and they loose their grip. Not to mention they get really screechy. (noisey) At this point I decided to remove the brake caliper to see how it would clean up. and replace the worn brake shoes with new Jag Wire X-Caliper Brake Shoes.

Above: The center pull caliper brake taken apart. Everything looks about average except the "caliper arm mounting bolt heads" look like they have some deep rust. And the return springs look pretty bad as well. I cleaned this one up to see if they were worth saving.

Above: Here I have re-mounted the Center Pull Caliper Brake and have the cable hanger in place and I am pulling the slack out of the main cable. I use the quick clamp to hold the caliper shut while I pull out the slack and tighten the cable anchor with the 3 way. I am holding the cable taut by clamping on with needle nose pliers. Just before tightening down the anchor I will turn the pliers to make sure the cable remains taut during tightening. Afterwards I tightened the anchor using two open-end box wrenches. Also if you look in the top right corner of the pic, you see the barrel adjuster for this caliper. Notice that the barrel adjuster is screwed all the way down. This way I have room for adjustment down the road when the cable stretches or the brake shoe wears down a bit. Imagine if you will that my right hand is holding the pliers and my left is ready to turn the three way. But as usual I am actually holding the camera in my right hand. lol

Above: On a scale of 1 to 10 this caliper restoration is about a 5 or 6 tops. At this point I am looking at this as more of a mechanical restoration than a cosmetic one. To properly restore this caliper to about a 9 I would first replace the caliper arm bolts. (due to rust-through and pitting) And the same for the return springs. Also all the alloy parts would be wheel brushed to a sheen with a fine brass wheel brush then polished. And the straddle cable would be replaced with a new one.

Above: Here I have done some (fine brass) wheel brushing on the lugs to see if the rust is all the way through. It is too deep to be saved. I found the same problem with the fork tips and the bracket /cable guide on the front. The same holds true for many other parts of the bike. Maybe in another 60 years this bike would be worth this much restoration but right now it would be pointless. This is the point where I decided this would be a "mechanical restoration" only. Not to say I will not clean it up a bit, of course I will try to make it presentable. Maybe "Ridden Hard but Well Cared For" would be a better description of the look I am going for here. Unfortunately, that will soon change as well.

Above: This Shimano Dura Ace crank is fantastic! At this point I had only cleaned it up on the bike. I was just trying to get the drive train functional, which I did. But I was not quite ready to get into the bottom bracket or threaded headset just yet. As it turned out I was right to be cautious.

Above: Here I have removed the caliper front caliper brake and front wheel. At this point I decided to clean up the frame some more. Notice this side of the headset does not look to awful.

Above: As I am wiping down the frame around the down tube on the left side the paint is literally falling off in a semi circle (C) around the down tube just south of the lug tip (A) connection. This is a real bad indicator that the frame is stressed at this point. Feeling around underneath the down tube I can feel where it buckled or caved in forming a dent (B&D) I can also feel a slight ridge where the tube swelled from being stressed. This is a real deal breaker especially for a bike in this condition. I will try to explain what I think happened.

Above: When the bike was struck, the force destroyed the original front wheel. The force of the impact put enough force on the fork that it acted upon the head-tube like a lever. The head tube exerted enough force on the down tube that it buckled under the pressure. This is what caused the dent (Stress Point 1) on the underside of the down tube just south of the head-tube. This same force (like a lever) put enough pressure upwards pushing the upper part of the head tube in the opposite direction or forward. This pulled upward on the front of the top tube just behind the head tube. This caused stress point two right at the point behind where the lug is brazed to the top tube. The force literally pulled the on the upper front of the to tube so hard it stressed. That big red arrow at the top shows exactly where the force would have been applied. And the missing paint shows that is exactly where the frame stressed or bulged. A simpler way of saying it would be, The same force that pushed the lower end of head tube inwards, levered the upper end of the head tube outwards. So the down tube was stressed on the underside and the top tube stressed on the top side.

Above: This is where this project came to an end with the front brake caliper rebuilt sitting on the table. I`m out a couple of derailleur cables a full can of White Lightning Clean Streak about a 1/2 roll of paper towels. And also a few hours labor. Well now that it does shift and the rear brake is hooked up I just had to ride this mess and see how it felt. It was the oddest feeling bike I have ever ridden. It felt like it was dog tracking (the front and rear wheels are not in line) And you could tell the geometry of the front end had been disturbed it just felt out of the norm. And I also noticed the left pedal felt bent, so I swapped pedals and tried it again. The left pedal still was not right. Now I am sure the left crank arm is bent as well. And that is (was) a damn fine crank-set. Maybe I`ll find a left side arm for it someday.

I informed the customer "Laura" of the frame damage and told her it would be better if I cut my losses now and just stopped the restoration. She agreed and offered me the bike for parts. It still has some really cool stuff like the bar cons and the front and rear derailleurs and 1/2 of a really good crank-set. And the handlebars are cool but might be slightly bent, really not sure yet. So I am giving her 50.00 for the bike. Which is probably stupid for reasons I won't get into here. Oh well another lesson learned. Go over every square inch of the bike twice "before" you do anything.

Above: The upside to this disaster is I can finally get back to the Raleigh Sports. And even better I am finally putting the finishing touches on the Parliament. Above: I decided to go ahead and paint the fork legs or blades white on the Parliament leaving the fork crown the original green. I am very pleased with the results, but I do have to give the paint 48 hours to cure before reassembling the front end of the Parliament. It is sold and hopefully we be going to it`s new home Monday.

Above: Today I was able to spray the Flat Black Rust-Oleum Enamel Primer on the Raleigh Sports frame. I am using black primer because I will be painting it the same black enamel that I painted Brian's Raleigh Sprite. I will also be doing the same gold detail around the lugs. Just for the sake of doing something different, I probably will do the rear fender tip white. (as stock) After I get the frame and fork painted I will start working on the bicycle fenders (mud guards) and chain guard. I want to get the fork back on the frame a.s.a.p. so I can see if my possible replacement front fender will work.

Above: There was so much painting and priming going on today, that I was running out of places to put the freshly primed and painted pieces. So I had to get creative. This looked like a good place to park the freshly primed fork for the evening. It is out of my way and somewhere where it will not get knocked over or disturbed.

Above: To keep the primer and paint out of the chrome "thimble like" detail on the upper fork blades I just used a piece of Scotch Blue painters tape and trimmed off the excess with a X Acto Knife.

Above: The fork wet sanded and cleaned with mineral spirits. Then all the chrome taped off and it is ready to spray. That is all I have for now. Until Next Time Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always...... RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE! Cheers, Hugh

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Raleigh Sports Restoration Part 2 Wet Sanding / Also some Tool and Product Reviews

Hello and Welcome. Today "Sunday" I did some repair/maintenance work on a bike that belongs to the grandson of a friend of mine. Then went to look at flooring with my wife and partner of almost 30 years. I finally unloaded the freebie Sprint that was donated to the cause by my brother in law Frank that has been in the trunk of my old Taurus for 5 days. (the bike not Frank). But Friday and Saturday afternoon I spent wet sanding the Raleigh Sports. And I hope to spend at least part of tomorrow working n it as well.

Above: Friday afternoon went pretty well, I finished sanding all the main tubes and the left side chain and seat stays. For the initial sanding I have been using an automotive grade 180 grit wet sandpaper. Before spraying primer I will go over it quickly with a finer grit paper, probably around 220 grit.

Above: I thought I would try something different, so I purchased this 3M Finish Sanding Wheel for my high speed 8 amp DeWalt drill. It did not work well on the frame at all, it felt too hard and wanted to bounce. Also I did not seem to be getting much done with it at all. I am sure it "probably" works fine for other applications, just not this one. I`m sure I will find some practical use for it in the future.

Above: Saturday afternoon I finished wet sanding everything except the head tube. I have decided to remove the badge this time. Today I looked for a beveled metal file at the Depot but they did not have anything in stock. Tomorrow I will check at Peter's True Value out on M59 west of here. I plan on filing off the rivets from inside the head tube as Darrell from Bent Wrench Restorations suggested.

Above: By the way... Congratulations to Darrell who took home a trophy for "Best Middleweight" at the "Village Cycle Sport Show and Swap" for his beautiful Flightliner. Well done!! This is the same Darrell who donated the beautiful decals for the Rusty Raleigh restoration. Sometimes good things do happen to good people!

Above: Today (Monday) while picking up a new beveled file and some hack saw blades at Peter's True Value, I also picked up 2 size D batteries. And as you can see above the Delta "Buddy" Flashlight Lantern is working!! Not too bad for a 1919 model. I plan to use this light as a prop while photographing my 1964 Raleigh Sports.

Above: Today I removed the head badge, and was able to do so without destroying it. On the advice of Darrell from Bent wrench Restorations I filed down the rivets from inside the head tube. For this I used a beveled or curved file.

Above: My new beveled metal file. Being the head tube is exactly what it sounds like "a tube" using a beveled file will make it much easier to file down the rivets from the inside. This hopefully will allow me to simply pry off the head badge when finished.

Above: Here I am filing down the rivets. Actually pretending to, as I am right handed and am holding my Fuji Fine Pix Camera in my right hand. But you get the general idea. Once I was sure I had filed the rivets down flush it was time to pry off the badge.

Above: First I slid in a feeler gauge to separate the badge from the tube next to one of the rivets. Then a thicker one to make room for my micro pry bar.

Above: This mini pry bar was a freebie. It was part of a small promotional mini tool kit that was given to my wife at work many years ago. I keep it in with my bicycle tools and use it fairly regularly. Once I had separated the head badge from the the paint I was able to pry each of the rivets loose easily using this little tool. I did this by placing the mini pry bar behind the badge and as close to the rivets as possible. I often use the mini pry bar to get under old rubber or plastic rim strips for removal.

Above: Here is a little peek into the past to see the glossy black finish which once complimented this classic style frame. This answers a question I had as to whether or not this bike ever had a glossy finish. I thought it may have had a more semi gloss or satin finish.

Above: Here I am ready to start wet sanding the head tube. By wet sanding the paper goes a lot farther than using it dry. Dry sanding tends to fill the paper with paint rendering it pretty much useless. By rinsing the paper often it goes a lot farther. But the main reason I like wet sanding is the absence of dust.

Above: Here I have finished sanding the head tube but do I need to touch up the edges of the lugs.

Above: I have found that for this a low speed 18 volt rechargeable drill works better. The fine brass wire wheel brush (safety glasses) is just to hard on the metal at high speeds. The low speed drill mimics hand brushing. The wheel brush is much easier and faster even on the slower drill. I usually position a fan to one side to blow the dust away as I work.

Above: Now that is what I am talking about!

Above: When the frame is finished I like to hang it up high where nothing bad can happen to it. Now I need to get the fork ready for primer.

Above: Here is the dramatic difference that a good sanding will make. The metal on this frame is actually in much better shape than the metal on the Rusty Raleigh. Even after sanding I could still see the negative effects of having been of left out in the weather for an extended time had on the Sprite. Even though this bike is considerably older the metal is in excellent condition. I guess the message here is obvious.

Above: The thimble like inserts on the upper fork blade look like new. I wonder if they have been replaced at some point? That is all for today. I will pick this up tomorrow if I can. I do need to mow the front and back and side lawn tomorrow. We shall see.

Above: The Trek Mountain Lion I purchased for $7.50 today. (Wednesday) I took Tuesday off "after working in the yard all day" I was just too tired to do any bicycle work. But today I fixed-up this Trek with stuff I had laying around the shop. I did quite a bit of rust removal on the rims and cleaned up the spokes and hubs as well. I installed new Avenir pedals that I had purchased a while back and never used. The saddle is the one that came here on the slow boat from China. The ODI Grips have been on a couple of bikes, the last being the red fixed gear cruiser. The chain-guard is one that was hanging on the wall, off a salvage bike I assume. The bike was also filthy and both tires were flat. I think now I could get 50.00 for it without too much trouble.

Above: After using two of the original chain guard mounts (the rear and farthest forward mount) the guard was flopping around. This guard was not made for the push in rubber mount pins. So I made up a mounting bracket using one of the original collars and a left over bracket I had in my collection mounting bracket parts. It worked out real well as the guard is no firmly in place with lots of clearance. I drilled a small hole in the front of the guard so the bracket mount can be easily accessed with a screwdriver. The guard is not the sharpest looking I have seen, but it gets the job done.

Above: Here it is Sunday again and all I have managed to do "bike wise" is clean-up this little Trek I fixed up. I had some home and family things to take care of. The weather here has turned tropical again. I just do not have the right DNA for hot weather I guess. But it is supposed to cool down somewhat Monday. So I should be back in the shop finishing the fork and I should be getting the frame and fork sprayed. (primer)

Above: Paul a new but regular reader of the blogs face book page (and hopefully the blog as well) asked about cleaning paint. So for those of you who do not do the "face book thing" here is the secret. Meguiar's Paint Cleaner which is part of the Meguiar's 3 Step treatment. Or if you want to simplify, there is also a "Meguiar's Paint Cleaner/Polish" you can purchase any of these at most good Auto parts stores.

Above: My tire new pump my wife gifted me for my birthday back in May. The air psi gauge dial is mounted up higher. I was having trouble reading the old one, especially in the shop. I highly recommend this Topeak Joe Blow Sprint air pump. Not only is the gauge easier to read, it also has a flick-lock to secure the handle and a peg and clip to secure the hose. My son did the research and said this appeared to have the best reviews for a pump in this price range. You can find this pump on Amazon.com and a rebuild kit for it as well. I traded Laura (who owns two of my bikes as does her partner) my old Blackburn air pump for a sweet mountain bike rear rack.

Above: While I am recommending tools, I would like to recommend all four of the tools you see above. The Two Park chain tools are both from Park Tool. The larger of the two chain tools is only for larger chains 1/2 x 1/8 and larger. And the smaller on is for the smaller 1/2 x 3/32 chains. Do not let the size fool you, the smaller chain tool is very well made and has very smooth threading. The 3 Way Allen key wrench is also made by Park and has the three most commonly used sizes 4, 5 & 6 for brakes and derailleurs. The 3 Way Socket wrench has the three most commonly used sizes for brakes and derailleurs 8, 9 & 10 and this one is made by Avenir. I am sure you can find either of these two tools offered by both manufacturers. Both are real time savers and easy to bring along if needed.

Above: I have had these Gear Wrench sets SAE and Metric for a while now. I would like to report back that I have not broke one yet. And I have since filled out my metric set. I am only lacking the 11mm to complete my metric set. (7/16 works fine) They are faster than a conventional wrench, but you still have that option on the open-end side of the wrench. I purchased the original sets and additional wrenches at Peter`s True Value Hardware in Highland on M59 west of town on the south side.

Above: Well it can not be all good news. My "Dremel Like" = not a real "Dremel" has shorted out. For a while I could manipulate the cord and get a connection. Not any longer, I suspect the problem was caused by the case. It is small and the cord has to be rolled up small to fit in the space allowed in the case. So there you have it, If you buy this off brand rotary tool you might want to toss the case in the wheelie bin. Or you could just buy a Genuine Dremel Rotary tool which will cost a little more. But you can see what has happened to my cheaper one. I will try to replace the cord and get back to you.

Above: Anyone know who won this thing? Until Next Time, Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE Cheers, Hugh

ATTENTION AMAZON SHOPPERS!! You can help Support This Blog by simply logging onto Amazon dot com using the Amazon Search Box located at the Top Right Corner of This Page. It will not effect your cost and I will receive a small commission. Thanks for your support. Above: Shameless use of a pretty girls photograph to keep your attention long enough to solicit contributions! No worries!! I`ll "even this out" with the next shameless solicitation. I promise :)

1964 Raleigh Sports Restoration.... Part One

Hello and Welcome. It has been three years since I purchased this 3 speed mens bike from a gentleman in AnnArbor Michigan. Having finished the "Rusty Raleigh Restoration" I finally feel confident enough to take on this project. I only have one real concern now that the bottom bracket is removed. And that is the dents. Particularly in the fenders with the beveled shape and the ridged center of the front fender (or mud guard) it is going to be challenging to hammer out the dents. Strangely enough "if I still have it" there is a masonry tool that my be helpful. But I will get back to that latter on in the project.

Above: The Raleigh as it looked when I brought it home in 2009. The very first thing I noticed about this bike was the huge Messenger bicycle saddle. That is going to have to go. Then the dented chain guard and fenders. And that the paint was shot, not worth trying to save the paint job. So this is going to be a major restoration, no doubt about that.

Above: This shot shows the worst part of the chain guard. I guess all I can do is remove the paint and try to hammer out the dents. If I am not satisfied with the results then I can look for a suitable replacement.

Above: Here I have marked a few of the many dents and dings I will be trying to remove on the vintage style bicycle fenders.

Above: On a positive note, the 26 inch wheels look pretty good and spin freely. I will definitely be oiling each spoke nipple in advance to make the truing process go smooth. Also one of the solid front fender struts is bent. But I think I have a replacement front fender with struts around here somewhere. I will try to repair the original fender and struts first.

Above: The rear wheel looks pretty good too. The Sturmey Archer three speed internal hub appears to be working perfectly, at least on the stand. I have always heard these hubs are very reliable. I can hardly wait to install the cable to the shifter, this should be interesting. LTMS The kick stand mechanism works like an old Schwinn but is a bolt on. I do not remember ever seeing one of these before.

Above: The block pedals work fine but the blocks are badly worn. I wonder if NOS replacement blocks are available on the e bay? Seems like I remember seeing them offered a long time ago. I am pretty sure these are going to be the old English thread type posts.

Above: The handlebar grips are shot, And they are ugly too! No worries, I would be replacing these anyway.

Above: I will be ordering new decals. I do not think this will be a problem as this model was very popular and they built them for many many years.

Above: I was pleased to see the iconic Raleigh head badge is in fine condition. I am still debating if I want to remove this one for painting or not. The last one came out pretty good, and would have come out better if I had cut the painters tape better.

Above: This is the last one I did and I think it looks pretty good. And I think I can do this one even better. Ok it is decided, it stays! Why go looking for trouble?

Above: I took photographs of the cable routing to assist me in re assembly and ordering replacement parts. The photographs of everything was an idea I picked up on British television (shown here). This fellow was restoring a BSA or Triumph motorbike. They only showed a few episodes here and it was gone. Too bad it was really cool. But we still have "Wheeler Dealers" another great British restoration (automobiles) show!

Above: The touring handlebars are in decent condition. The Stem is good to excellent. And the "Lamp mount bracket" (not sure that is what it is called) is in fine shape as well. I was surprised how easily the stem came out. I was sure it was going to be difficult. But Raleigh owners seem to be the sort who maintain their bikes really well for the most part.

Above: Here is an antique "Delta Buddy" electric lamp (pat.1919) I hope to mount on the lamp bracket for photography purposes only. The battery compartment is clean and the directions card is still in place inside the case. I would not be all that surprised if the #@& &%#@ thing still works!

Above: Removing the crank arm I used every trick I know. First I removed the cotter pin retainer nut and sprayed a little penetrating oil in the nut end of the pin hole (24 hours before starting). Then I used a Heavy Duty C Clamp and a socket "before I used a lug nut but the socket works better." And then I carefully applied pressure. This part is tricky, because if the set up is not perfect it will pop off under pressure. Once I have tightened the C Clamp real tight I warm up the arm around the spline. Then I just leave it alone for a while. Often I will hear the cotter pin break loose while I am doing something else. If it does not break loose, once it has cooled I add more torque. I usually have to use a Crescent wrench handle as a lever to tighten the clamp. I do not want to break the clamp so I only tighten the clamp a little each time. Then I warm it up again and walk away. It took three or four times for this one to break loose. If you are not experienced with the tools and confident, you may want to have this done at a shop.

Above: If you are going to try this you will need a heavy duty C Clamp. I do not even know if they make clamps like this one any more. I find clamps like this one at garage sales and some thrift shops. A cheap cast C clamp could break under extreme pressure and could cause injury.

Above: This lighter duty modern clamp was literally folding under the pressure. So Please Do Not Try This With Inferior Clamps / Tools. Some of these older keys take an extreme amount of pressure before they break loose.

Above: As you can see eventually it all came apart. I think the other important part of this method is, Once you warm it up, shut off the torch. Then give the heat a little time to work. I have seen them break loose 15 or 20 minutes after I warmed up the arm around the spline area. Good tools, careful set up and sticking to the plan and of course lots of patience will get the job done safely.

Above: I was amazed to see the good condition of the bottom bracket spindle or axle, especially after the battle I went through to remove the crank. I expected this bracket spline to be all rusted and pitted. The bearings look suspect or not quite right. I think they may have been distorted or taken-on an oval shape possibly from over tightening or maybe they are just wore out. At any rate I will need to replace these. And the head set bearings will need to be replaced as well.

Above: Here I have cleaned out the bracket shell using White Lightning Clean Streak It looks like the drive side cup may be scored. I think it is just grease residue. But if I can not remove it (residue) I will have to remove the drive side cup and take a closer look. To spray the bracket shell I tilt the frame in the stand so the cleaner and sludge will run out. I hold a plastic (sink size) tub behind and under the bracket when spraying. Being careful to catch any spray through on the opposite side. You will need to read the directions and cautions carefully. The fumes could be dangerous and hazardous to your health.

Above: To remove the hardened grease I have given the headset bearing cups a heavy coat of Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish. (inside and out). I'll leave this alone for about 10 minutes or so then wipe it clean with a paper towel or rag.

Above: A shot of the headset cup after wiping clean and buffing with paper towels. Sometimes I need to repeat the process. And a few times I have finished off stubborn grease marks with a fine brass detail brush.

Above: Having purchased this bike three years ago, I had totally forgotten that it has a rear coaster brake. As it sat over with all the other "not yet restored" bikes I noticed from a distance that it had a missing brake lever. Or so I thought. I remembered that three years ago I had removed the front caliper. And seeing one lever,I thought I must have removed the lever as well. "long story short" For a week I have been wondering where I could have stored the missing lever. When I finally dragged the bike out from where I had it parked, I spotted the coaster brake and had a good laugh. (at myself) Because there never was a second lever! Not being much of a three speed guy, I assumed they all had a front and rear caliper brake. Live and learn :)

Above: Normally my next step would be to rebuild the threaded headset and crank. However this bike is getting a total repaint. So the next step will be to remove the paint from the frame and fork and fenders as well. I wont sand the fenders down until I am ready to hammer out the dents. No sense having the fenders sitting around bare exposing the metal to moisture. I do have another front fender that is in excellent condition, I will see how it matches up with the original. If it is a good match I will probably prepare the nicer fender for paint and save the original.

Above: I have this idea of replacing the front brake with a vintage "Mafac Racer" center pull brake. Sort of a "period correct upgrade". I would need to come up with a cable guide. It might be possible to drill a small hole through the lamp hanger bracket and mount a barrel adjuster there on center. Anyway it is just a thought at this point. Until next time Please RIDE SAFE and Remember to Always....RESCUE, RESTORE & RECYCLE Cheers, Hugh

ATTENTION AMAZON SHOPPERS!! You can help Support This Blog by simply logging onto Amazon dot com using the Amazon Search Box located at the Top Right Corner of This Page. It will not effect your cost and I will receive a small commission. Thanks :)